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Frommer's Guide
FEATURES AND EVENTS
Nature and Nurture
San Francisco Fun in the Summer
Picnicking in San Francisco
Summer Day, Drive Away: Coastal Journeys from San Francisco
Gay by the Bay: Where to Find the Fun in San Francisco

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Panoramic Views, Parks, and Picnics
by Jessica L'Esperance
Walking Tours
Walking around San Francisco is one of the best ways to enjoy a sunny day, get some exercise, and find your own treasured picnic spots. Various local organizations sponsor walks focused on the city's history, parks, public art, and historical homes. For information on self-guided walks contact one of the organizations below. (Another good resource is the Frommer's guide called Memorable Walks In San Francisco.)

San Francisco Architectural Heritage: Learn the difference between a Queen Anne and an Italianate home. Walking tours with strong emphasis on architecture highlight Pacific Heights' mansions and the interior of the historic Haas-Lilleinthal House.

City Guides: Sponsored by the Public Library, these free walks focus on local history. Highlights include Brothels, Boardinghouses, and Bawds; a Walk Through Chinatown; Murals in the Mission; Gold Rush City; and Haight-Ashbury.


goldengateTraditionally, picnicking evokes images of eating hand-packed lunches on empty hillsides full of wildflowers, under the shade of an isolated weeping willow, or on the beach with waves breaking in the distance. While San Francisco is far from a designated wilderness area, don't let the prevalence of pavement stop you from picnicking. Amidst the racing buses, the shopping centers, and the three-quarters of a million residents, San Francisco's hilltop parks offer incredible opportunities to study the city's stories and enjoy a stroll in the park.

Below are three scenic spots to spread out your gingham tablecloth and absorb the unique spirit of the Golden Gate's guardian city. Whether colorful public art is your thing or it's historical homes and haunts that make you tremble with curiosity, San Francisco's sultry secrets, delightful wonders, and culinary treasures come out of the fog with every step.

Picnic Perfect in Pacific Heights
A stroll through Alta Plaza Park, sitting smack in middle of the ritzy residential neighborhood of Pacific Heights, is sure to restore a sense of calm to any urbanite, whether resident or visitor. On weekends, families with children come to the park's playground. Following in true San Franciscan fashion the new non-conventional families of dogs and their owners frolic in their own designated off-leash play area. Pacific Heights began in 1878 with the extension of a cable-car line connecting Pacific Street to downtown. After the 1906 earthquake, many suddenly homeless families fled to Pac Heights, which was spared by the devastating fire, and started anew. The wealthiest families purchased lots with premium vistas and construction of grand mansions began.

For some delicious to-go fare that will surely impress any gourmand, grab some grub at Mollie Stone's. This gourmet grocery specializing in deli sandwiches and à-la-carte creations also offers a scrumptious salad bar and extensive wine selection. With your basket full, ascend the elegant staircases at the top of Clay Street and eat amongst the romping dogs, fellow picnickers, and the occasional sunbather. From the top, southern views are of Alamo Square, Twin Peaks, and Buena Vista Park. Northern views are graced with panoramic scenes of Marin County, Angel Island, and the bay.

For indulgences of the material kind, head nearby to the area's quaint commercial center. Lively Parisian-style bistros, designer clothing boutiques, and refined furniture stores fill the storefronts on tree-lined Fillmore Street. Well-to-do walkers cruise the picturesque strip with a Peet's coffee in one hand and little dog leashes in the other. Notable stops include fingering the sale items at Browser Books, getting funky with dresses to die for at Betsey Johnson, upscale bistro dining at Florio and perusing colorful kitchen, house, and bath paraphernalia at Fillamento.

Find it: Mollie Stone's Grand Central Market: 2435 California Street. Peet's Coffee and Tea: 2197 Fillmore Street. Browser Books: 2195 Fillmore Street.Betsey Johnson: 2033 Fillmore Street. Florio: 1915 Fillmore Street. Fillamento: 2185 Fillmore Street.

Munchies and Mural Mania in the Mission
missionDolores Park is the colorful Mission district's largest and most prized picnicking spot, where sweeping views of the Transamerica Pyramid and other downtown buildings rise up from behind the architecturally ornate Mission High School. Laid out in 1905, this neighborhood favorite's postcard view leaves even long-time residents stunned and awestruck. The expansive grass, pleasantly pitched slope, animated crowd, and great views make this park a city picnicker's dream come true. It's also closeby the neighborhood's eponymous attraction, Mission Dolores (left).

Vibrant, larger-than-life murals pulse throughout the Mission District and discovering one around an unknown corner is guaranteed to tug at the heartstrings of any art lover. Don't miss the educational and inspirational Maestrapeace on the Women's Building on 18th Street. One of the Mission's most famous murals is the culmination of a multi-cultural, multi-generation collaboration of seven women artists celebrating the courageous contributions of women across time and around the world. Another notable treasure is the little Balmy Alley where the oldest murals were painted in the early 1970s and new ones are added all the time. Their themes are political, with an emphasis on Latino history and pride. For the best way to see the Mission District's many murals, join a walking tour organized by Precita Eyes Mural Center or City Guides. To hit the road on your own, pick up a Mural Center map detailing the whereabouts of murals throughout the neighborhood.

Produce markets, taquerias, bars, and restaurants de la moda pave the streets inhabited by the area's large Latino population, younger residents, and artsy types. Burritos are a San Francisco staple and are always a bargain treat at Taquria Cancun and El Farlito, where you help yourself to avocado tomatillo salsa and traditional pico de gallo. For a livelier atmosphere try Puerto Alegre where roaming mariachis serenade packed booths full of people enjoying pitchers of margaritas, the refreshing specialty of the house. Bohemian ambiance, happening nightlife, and an influx of top-notch restaurants have crisply cultivated the residents' gourmet palates. Fortunately for residents and savvy picnickers alike, you can't miss the original Art Deco neon sign announcing the Bi-Rite Market on 18th Street. First opened in 1940 and recently renovated to its original pre-war luster, this specialty grocery a block from Dolores Park sells house-smoked lox, fresh-baked cakes, salads, Middle Eastern dips and pasta sauces, and made-to-order deli sandwiches. Grab a bottle of wine, stock up at the olive bar, add a baguette, choose from more than 100 different cheeses, and viola--a perfect picnic.

Find it: Women's Building: 18th Street between Valencia and Guerrero. Balmy Alley: 24th St. between Harrison and Treat Streets. Precita Eyes Mural Center: Precita Ave at Folsom Street, tours are Saturdays at 1:30pm.
Bi-Rite Market: 3639 18th Street at Gurerro Street. El Farlito: Mission at 24th Street. Taqueria Cancun: 2288 Mission, near 19th Street. Puerto Alegre: Valencia at 16th Street.

Snacks, Stairs, and Stanzas in Russian Hill
sf3Russian Hill's signature staircases, heavenly views, crooked streets, and one-way alleys hide its prized gardens and gorgeous houses. Picnickers will find hilltop perches with soaring panoramas offering quiet nooks begging you to stay awhile, relax, and indulge in an Epicurean delight. Best known nowadays among literary circles as the location of Armistead Maupin's fictional Barbary Lane in the Tales of the City series, the cute cottages and lush lanes have also housed literary figures including Jack Kerouac and Neal Cassidy. Contemporary residents may be more banker and less bohemian then they once were, but the area is as scenic and serene as ever.

The picnic destination, Ina Coolbrith Park, offers expansive views of the Golden Gate, making it a secluded lunchtime spot atop Russian Hill. Ina Donna Coolbrith was a librarian and esteemed poet-laureate, but was most famous in San Francisco's literary world for her role as a catalyst to the aspiring writers--including Jack London and Bret Harte--who met regularly at her home for readings. Another remote hilltop perch perfectly poised for city 'nicking sits at the end of Vallejo Street. This secluded lawn, continuing to the edge of the hill after the street dead-ends, boasts a dazzling view overlooking the Bay Bridge, Downtown San Francisco, and, on a clear day, the East Bay.

Cable cars screech past the corner of Hyde and Union at the center of commercial life in this otherwise residential area. En route to the park, grab some deli sandwiches to go at the Searchlight Market, munch a slice of pizza at Za's Gourmet Pizza, or stop by the Original Swensen's Ice Cream Parlor where the ice cream legacy began back in 1948. Chocoholics will delight in the variety of flavors including Sticky Gooey Chocolate, Bittersweet Chocolate, Swiss Mandarin Chocolate, and Mint Chocolate. Feeling lucky? If you get the red star on your receipt, your purchase of up to $5 is free!

Find it: Ina Coolbrith Park: Taylor and Vallejo Streets. Searchlight Market: 1964 Hyde Street. Za's Gourmet Pizza: 1916 Hyde Street. Swensen's Ice Cream Parlor: 1999 Hyde Street.•

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